Day 11 (2016-09-06): ~ 25miles from Lincoln City to Newport, OR. Mainly Highway 101 with some diversions.
Last night the Racoons in Lincoln City were the worst! One of our neighbors just had his bags out with food in them, not inside a tent vestibule and not in a locker. Big mistake! We woke up a ton to the sound of little feet running around and their banter back and forth. If you didn’t know, Racoons make a sort of chittering noise to each other while the discover/fight over your food. We’re good at putting all the food away and keeping it withing the vestibule and so far no Racoons has been brazen enough to come and get it. So far.
It absolutely poured on us and we only rode about 25 miles. Only one section was of note – the Otter Rock loop. This is a few miles of small two lane (and for a portion one lane with delineated sidewalk/bike trail) off of 101 where you’re right on the coastal cliffs. It was absolutely beautiful and we rode straight through some thick fog. I took a couple pictures, but know that it was tens times more epic in person. We also met a nice couple who flagged us down to watch some whales off-white. We spent a good 20 minutes watching whales (the folks said they think they were California Grey Whales) and saw tons of spouts and flukes! It must have been a while pod of them 🙂
Rolling into Newport we went to Bike Newport, a sweet shop with sales, service, and a lounge for touring cyclists to dry off, do laundry, nap, and otherwise recover from the road. It was fabulous! We were soaked head to toe so this gave us a chance to dry off, eat, do laundry and dry clothes, charge our things, use internet, and even nap for a bit. The only condition is that you make a purchase, which was easy enough given that my rear hub had come loose and the bearings were getting really grimy. I got an overhaul and purchased some new bikes shorts too – my second pair have not been treating me well.
With all the rain the last week we decided to find a place to stay inside. Being the day after Labor Day I was not surprised that the Warm Showers host did not respond, so we ended up using a gift card Lindsey’s former boss gave her for lodging on a tough day. We booked a room on AirBnB just a few blocks from the bike shop. Our host Steve was pleasant and even offered to give us a ride to and from dinner on the town’s little boardwalk. We took the offer for a ride down from another guest, Bill, an Octogenarian traveling up the coast to a wedding and stopping to hike all along the way. Apparently, he’s written a book!
Dinner was a Hawaiian Kobehameha Burger (get it? Kamehameha but with Kobe beef) with fries and beer cheese soup at one of Rogue Breweries’ Public Houses. It wasn’t exactly a local choice, but it reminds us of the Rogue Public House just outside of Seattle we often visit after a hike or mountain bike trip. Same menu and everything!
By the time we got back to the house it had rained again and stopped. Unknown to us, our host Steve had brought our tent inside since it was not drying on the back porch where we hung it up. He hung it’s pieces around the kitchen and set up both a fan and a space heater to dry it out. What a guy! Thanks Steve!
Day 12 (2016-09-07): ~40 Mike’s from Newport AirBnB to Carl Washburne State Park, OR. mostly 101 with varying quality.
Awake in Newport with a warm bed after a solid night’s sleep and a long shower. Steve was a super nice host, if a bit awkward. We left our tents outside to dry yesterday and it started to rain – Steve brought them in and hung them up with a Dan and a heater. This morning everything was dry!
We said farewell to Bill as he hiked away in full Octogenarian getup, while Steve took a couple of shots if us on the street. He was real pumped to get some photos of us on the bridge out of town. First we stopped at the local natural foods store which was expensive but much needed after killing that Burger last night. We also cleaned our drivetrains for the first time – talk about disgusting! That rag was trashed afterwards. When yesterday’s rain hit our dirty, sandy chains it created a thick gunk that was really killing our shifting.
The bridge out if town was not too bad after the first two cars got unnecessarily close. Steve was waiting for us and snapped a couple shots before we disappeared into the fog – he has our info so I hope he sends us a copy!
From Newport we cruised to Waldport at a decent place. I was lost in thought for a while, doing some math about how hills affect average speed. It wasn’t important but I like small puzzles while riding – I can focus on that for a whole and time passes much quicker. Waldport was a nice little place with a good beach – I’d take it over some of the other busier places we passed through. After passing through town I was getting antsy and told Lindsey I was going to cruise for a while and pounded out 10 miles doing 18-20mph, compared to our usual 11-13. would stop around ten miles or so. I pounded out a solid 17-18 miles per hour for 10 miles – it felt so good!
We met a nice couple (Katie and Michael) from Denver who were traveling for about a year with their truck and shred sleds (mountain bikes). Apparently, there is some epic mountain biking along the coast. I’d believe it. We chatted for a while and got a group photo – trying to get more photos of other people we meet. (She has it – gave them my card so I hope to get a copy soon.) If we all lived in the same place we’d be friends for sure. They were chill. And I introduced them to Juanita’s. Katie seemed to like them okay but Michael was impressed! I’ll add our photo with them if they send it.
Carl Washburne State Park is a beautiful area and it was so quiet compared to some of the campgrounds we stayed at. We arrived relatively early so we were able to walk the beach for a while before showers and dinner. Man, what a luxury! We found a couple of crabs, one oh which was stuck upside down. We gave him a lil flip to help the poor guy out. He didn’t make for the water though, just buried himself into the sand.
Camp was pretty routine, with Spanish rice and refried beans for dinner topped with avocado and the last of the kale. Plus Juanita’s to scoop it. The winds were real strong after dinner so we crawled into our bags to read and warm up. Sunset on the beach was a real treat – I didn’t have my phone for a photo and photos never do it justice anyway. So I saved that image to memory and sketched a little scene. Hopefully I can do this more often. I’ve wanted to reconnect with my more creative/expressive/artistic self and for some reason this beach sunset really inspired me!